Postcards from Georgetown,Penang

Life itself is the proper binge. - Julia Child

For anyone finding themselves in Malaysia for the first time, Penang would be the city to get a taste of what the culture is all about (and Sabah - can't leave it out because I grew up here and we have the best islands, sunsets and seafood, not biased at all). And for those living in Malaysia, a short getaway to feed the mind does not have to be far. I took my first trip to Penang when I was 9 or 10 and the city has evolved in the best way over the decade, yet it feels like I'm revisiting an old favorite. This trip we spent our time exploring only Georgetown.

The city is so culturally vibrant and I love how the interiors have a modern updated; yet historic facades strongly influenced by both the British and Chinese are preserved. Walking along the quaint, colorful townhouses felt like being transported back to the older days where life moved at a much slower pace. In the last decade, parts of Georgetown was also recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site. The city is well-known for its rich Peranakan culture (similar to parts of Singapore), referring to an ethnic group commonly known as Babas (men) & Nyonyas (women) where Chinese immigrants married the local Malays back in the days, adopting cultures from both ethnicity, also western practices during the European colonization in Malaysia.

Georgetown is walkable and safe, that is if you can withstand the tropical humidity. Otherwise Uber/Grab are good options to get around. We stayed at Areca Penang Hotel, a heritage hotel that was recently built and really enjoyed it. I would definitely recommend staying in a heritage hotel for the traditional Peranakan experience where the architecture highlights dark wood furniture and tiles, also antique decors. Just so you know, there are a lot of food recommendations listed below because Penang (or Southeast Asia in general) is a food heaven. Food is the heart of our culture, and Penang is famous for its endless options of hawker stalls and street food. Everyone's favorite or best will vary a lot, but the enthusiasm for food is shared by all.

To Visit:

• Penang Peranakan Mansion - Visit for a glimpse of the traditional home and lifestyle of the Peranakans. We were able to wander freely around the mansion, and the eclectic architecture of the entire space isn't one to go without notice. The mansion has so many exquisite little details that really shows off in photos.

• Cheong Fatt Tze Blue Mansion - An elegant, traditional mansion with a distinctive blue facade built by a Chinese merchant, Chong Fatt Tze for his large number family members some time in the 19th century. Today it has become a heritage hotel and a space often rented for photoshoots and weddings, also open for visitors and tours. The mansion is where the mahjong scene in Crazy Rich Asians was filmed! The history behind this mansion was really interesting and I highly recommend listening to the short guided tour.

• Street Art Hunting - If you have ever seen anything about Penang on social media, it's most likely one of the many street art located throughout Georgetown. You can easily pick up a map or a checkbox to hunt down all these murals (yes it's a thing), with some being more popular than others and people form lines to take photos with the mural (us included)! I included the website for reference and easy access.

• Hin Bus Depot - An art and community space for local artists to sell and exhibit their work, also a fun space to hang out with rotating performances, film screenings and creative workshops. We made our way there with the intention of checking out the Pop Up Market, only to find that the market is only open on Sundays so that was a bummer.

• Another tourist spot to check out is the Kek Lok Si Buddhist Temple. We did not go this time as we have been before and wanted to explore a more different side of Georgetown.

To Eat:

• Ivy's Nyonya Cuisine - Nyonya cuisine is rooted in the Peranakan culture. Nyonya and Malaysian / Singaporean cuisines in general heavily overlap since they use a lot of the same spices in recipes and cooking methods. But Ivy's was very homestyle and the interior feels like you're dining in a friend's home. It's run by a very friendly owner and I really enjoyed how simple and hearty the dishes were.

• Aunty Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery - This is another restaurant that serves Nyonya cuisine and while I can't decide if I like this place or Ivy's better, I do think that Aunty Gaik Lean is more flavorful and rich, and perhaps closer to the average Malaysian Chinese cuisine.

• Penang Road Famous Teochew Cendol - This is the "if you haven't had cendol here, have you even been to Penang" shop. They've opened branches across Malaysia but we all know the original stall is always the best. And yes, expect to line up (though we didn't because we went at an odd hour and it was right across from our hotel). Cendol is a local dessert made with coconut milk and coconut sugar and the green grass jelly (which is called cendol in Malay) and an assortment of other toppings depending on where you're getting it from. They also serve asam laksa (which is a hot and sour soup noodle). I personally did not love this version of asam laksa because I'm used to eating another but definitely try it out. Note that the original location is on Lebuh Keng Kwee (there are several other stalls that claim to be the original). Also next to the cendol stall is an uncle selling Penang char kuey teow (stir fried flat rice noodles) at an unassuming looking street stall and it was SO GOOD we ordered seconds.

• Ali Nasi Lemak - A popular stall selling nasi lemak (coconut rice wrapped in banana leaves - a true Malaysian delicacy) at a hawker center. My friends described it as good but too spicy, and couldn't finished their portion. Meanwhile I thought it was spicy but it was the addictive kind of spicy (only people who eat spicy food would get me). But for RM2, it's worth trying before you decide whether it's too spicy for your liking.

• Nasi Kandar DEEN - A local crowd favorite for Nasi Kandar, where you pick from a selection of curries and side dishes served with rice. We went at 4pm and saw a long line, we definitely waited for a good 20 minutes before we were served. Not sure how one of us found this place but the customers all look local (though I doubt it now cause they have over 3k reviews on google). The food of course was very authentic.

• ChinaHouse - One of the earliest cafes to open in Penang, and stretching as long as 3 heritage buildings, you'll find a bakery, several restaurants and some with live performances at night, mini art galleries and shops etc. There's no one way to define the space is, but there's a little bit of everything within the large space that's pretty cool to check out.

• Manchu Penang - There's a secret door that's easily missed to enter this hidden bar. It's a very lively Manchurian-themed bar with related props all around for guests to play around and take photos, traditional chinese opera performances and all the cocktails are served in chinese ceramics, super fun for a night's out.

• Golden Shower by Chin Chin - Penang is really into themed bars and Golden Shower was pretty much designed for millennials, kind of reminds me of certain restaurant interiors in NYC or London. Think pink velvets and gold accents. Even the website is super on brand. The entrance itself is over-the-top, and there's a gold-colored toilet bowl. You'll have to enter two doors to get into the actual bar, which feels like a world of its own. Check it out once for the ambience because it's $$$.

• Magazine 63 天下第一戰 - Another bar with a hidden entrance that looks like you're walking into someone's home, but really it felt more like a club than a bar. The cocktails here are served in ceramic bowls, and there's a live DJ which adds to the fun.

Coffee Shops:

• Rabbit Soft Serve at Hold Up Cafe - A minimalistic little coffee shop that sells coffee, sharing a space with Rabbit Soft Serve, serving a rotation of soft serve flavors. What's (not-so) secret about the shop is you walk through a fridge door which leads you to the back of the shop where there are more seatings to hang out. It's also a bar by night!

• Dan Cafe - Connected to Moon Shop Gallery, this coffee shop has plants & terrarium everywhere, giving it a lush, cozy vibe. They have a good selection of desserts, and we shared a matcha lava cake which was delicious.

• Ome by Spacebar - Definitely my favorite coffee shop visited during the trip. I'm in love with everything about it from the vine-covered facade, then the rustic interior with exposed brick walls and wooden furniture, also the abundance of natural light in the space. They serve really good coffee, and I appreciate how they provide dairy alternatives. The second floor is used as a space for rotating art exhibitions. Highly recommend checking out this cafe.

• Whisk - A dessert shop that serves really pretty (but also pricy) cakes. We didn't try any of their cakes and had their fruit popsicles instead simply because we ate too much the entire trip. It's a really cute spot for photos since they do have a little outdoor seating area decorated with lots of dried flowers.

Georgetown is such a charming old city, one I could totally see myself coming back again and again. My friends could probably attest to it based on my level of excitement throughout the trip. Personally, I would recommend Penang over Kuala Lumpur. There's a unique vibe that Georgetown gives off, different from other states in Malaysia. One you'll have to immerse yourself in to understand why I'm smitten over it :)

xx

Sam